North Korean leader Kim Jong Un in a photo released by Rodong Sinmun on Feb. 13. (Rodong Sinmun-News1)

North Koreans apparently have lots to say about leader Kim Jong Un’s recent appearance in attire reminiscent of his father, late leader Kim Jong Il. The younger Kim might have emulated his father’s sartorial style to highlight his family’s accomplishments ahead of the elder Kim’s birthday on Feb. 16, but this appears to be falling flat with the public. 

The younger Kim appeared at the groundbreaking ceremony for 10,000 new housing units in Pyongyang’s Hwasong District last Saturday wearing a khaki windbreaker — called a “Songun Suit” in North Korea — and sunglasses. 

The elder Kim would often wear a khaki windbreaker and sunglasses when he paid “on-the-spot guidance” visits. So, when his son showed up at the groundbreaking event in the same attire, locals were immediately reminded of his father. 

A source in Pyongyang told Daily NK on Wednesday that three things remind people of Kim Jong Il: a windbreaker, sunglasses, and an ushanka that keeps your ears warm. The source said with Kim Jong Un showing up wearing two of the three, everyone knows he was trying to copy his father.

The source said many Pyongyang residents say they think of the “Arduous March” when they see the North Korean leader donning “Kim Jong Il-style” fashion.

That means that when many Pyongyang residents think of the Kim Jong Il era, they are reminded of the starvation of the Arduous March and of relatives in the countryside who died of hunger.

Moreover, with the public suffering economic difficulties due to the protracted closure of the border to control COVID-19, some North Koreans are even wondering if this is the start of a “Second Arduous March.”

Meanwhile, soldiers who attended the groundbreaking ceremony in Hwasong District recalled memories of “Songun politics” upon seeing Kim and his retro fashion.

Many soldiers attended the ceremony, including a construction brigade and officers from military academies.

Another Daily NK source in the country said he is reminded of Songun politics when thinking of Kim Jong Il. He said people likely remember the era of Songun politics as one of such severe tyranny, so much so that people used to say that soldiers owned all the livestock and daughters in the village. He noted, however, that soldiers have no good memories of the period as well. 

The source said that back then, military units had to focus their efforts on preparing for potential on-the-spot guidance visits by the elder Kim, as they could happen at any time. He said soldiers suffered because military units competed with each other to offer better food and base conditions for the visits.

Moreover, military families had to provide 100 to 300 kilograms of pork to make it look as if the soldiers were being well fed, so even officers’ wives and children were mobilized for the effort.

The source said because of these unpleasant memories of the Kim Jong Il era, officers and military families have been critical of his son’s decision to dress like his father.

He said Pyongyang residents still have plenty to say about Kim’s clothing, with some saying it seems that while he spent his first ten years in power emulating his grandfather, North Korean founder Kim Il Sung, he will spend his next 10 years practicing the Songun politics of his father.

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Seulkee Jang is one of Daily NK's full-time reporters and covers North Korean economic and diplomatic issues, including workers dispatched abroad. Jang has a M.A. in Sociology from University of North Korean Studies and a B.A. in Sociology from Yonsei University. She can be reached at skjang(at)uni-media.net.