North Korea’s Docks a Forge

[imText1]July 12th 1989. After the 13th World Youth Festival held in Pyongyang, I visited a dockyard in Rajin city, North Hamkyung for important consultations. I was on my way to the wharf to further understand the situation of the dockyard.

When I visited North Korea in April 1989, I had already received a proposal from Daesung General Bureau which informed me that a large dockyard was needed at a port somewhere along the East Sea to conduct maintenance and repairs on a ship 5,000tons large in size.

Every November, all ships operations must be suspended due to the cold weather along the north and Russian coastlines of North Hamkyung. It was agreed that profits could be made by using this time to maintain and repair the ships.

Due to the severe climate, ships would have to be sent to Macau or Singapore for basic maintenance as circumstances did not allow any other in North Korea. Targeting these ships, it was agreed that it would be possible to construct a dockyard along Rajin-Sunbong, Chongjin or Wonsan.

With Kim Ho Man, the 3rd bureau of Daesung General Bureau, advisor Lee Sung Dong and one other guide, we left for Rajin on a special train with sleeping compartments at 10AM. The attendant on the train made an announcement revealing my name, “Good morning, American comrade, Kim Chan Gu.” My identity had already been identified. I thought it would be extremely difficult even for spies to evade this meticulous control.

The Daesung General Bureau had already prepared train tickets and travel permits as it had already been scheduled that I would make a business trip. Our seats were in the sleeping compartments. However, the train shook so hard from left to right that it felt like I was on board a boat.

A rickety railroad still used from Japanese colonial period

The guide informed me that the rails had been constructed during the time of Japanese colonial period and that the train shook because repairs had not been conducted regularly. The sleeping compartments comprised of 4 beds and so this was perfect for our trip. We became friends easily as we conversed about business and talked about America throughout the whole night and having a drink. I think it was easy for us to be friends since we spoke the same language.

After Hamheung, we stopped briefly at a station called Hongwon. I was told that Kim Hyung Kwon, Kim Il Song’s uncle had taken refuge in Hongwon at a friend’s house after beginning an independent movement during the Japanese colonial period. He was caught as his friend has reported him to authorities. Even this was a fascinating story to tell and was told with great veracity. We drank beer and soju and alternatively needed to the use the bathroom.

July 13th 1989. We arrived at Rajin station around 6 o’clock where a second hand Japanese Nissan waited to escort us to the site. It was strange to see the driver seat on the opposite side. I was happily received by the people.

After changing into fresh clothes, we went to visit the repairs location around 10 o’clock. After inspecting the harbor facilities and conducting a few inquiries such as the changes in climate and wind in the varying seasons, I could sense that repairs were greatly needed. Fortunately, only a 2,000ton Russian cargo ship was in the midst of repairs, however, equipment would be needed to repair the hull of the ship. The bulk of the facilities, equipment and instruments were greatly in need.

After drafting a plan with the staff, it seemed that an actual dockyard would take too much time and money to construct and that rather a floating dock would be an overall effective plan. Following consultations, I was offered by the Daesung General Bureau to lunch at a beautiful hill near the beach.

Everyone having a good time using my visit as an excuse

20 people were mobilized to prepare a massive feast for one person, me. A variety of seafood dishes were prepared and delivered by a small motorboat. Using my visit as an excuse, it seemed that everyone had planned to eat abundantly and have a good time. We drank a glass of beer and sang, danced and had an extraordinarily good time. While some persons slept drunk from alcohol, the others happily socialized.

In the evening, I invited the people and their families, who had made my day so pleasant. I gave a guide $200 and told her to prepare a meal that would be more than sufficient. Then, I went to sleep in my room.

The guide wakes me up. It’s time to have dinner. On table in the marine office, a variety of seafood dishes have been prepared. Looking carefully at the dishes, they seemed to have been prepared with drinks similar to our lunch. Cigarettes and candy had been prepared and the wives of the workers had also accompanied their husbands to the dinner.

Whenever there is a fancy event, the wives always dress elaborately in the traditional Korean dress. On the table, there were only plates of seafood, alcohol and cigarettes. There was not a single piece of fruit or vegetable. Glasses were passed around and as the sun set, singing and dancing followed. As the noise continued into the east, we could sense feelings of friendship for one another. However, the problem was that the drinks continued to be passed to me. I could not refuse the drinks and continued to receive them as they came. Then, I began to raise my voice and eventually lost thought.

I spoke softly to the guide. I asked her to take me to my room. I was so drunk I could not look after myself. I returned to my room with the words, “The Great Leader is with us forever” “Be prepared to die and escort the revolutionary leader” ringing in my ears. (continues)