This is “NK Market Trends,” bringing you
weekly updates on the North Korean economy. This week we sat down with reporter
Kang Mi Jin to discuss the latest trends; but first, let’s take a look at how
the jangmadang [market] has been doing.
We’ll begin by providing a rundown on the price
of rice, the currency conversion rates, and the cost of other goods in North
Korean markets. The price of 1 kg of rice was 6,000 KPW in Pyongyang, 6,000 KPW
in Sinuiju, and 6,200 KPW in Hyesan. The USD was trading at 8,260 KPW in
Pyongyang, 8,200 KPW in Sinuiju, and 8,320 KPW in Hyesan. Moving along, the
cost of 1 kg of corn kernels was 2,300 KPW in Pyongyang, 2,250 KPW in Sinuiju,
and 2,300 KPW in Hyesan. One kg of pork was selling at 14,500 KPW in Pyongyang
and 15,000 KPW in both Sinuiju and Hyesan. Gasoline was trading at 9,000 KPW
per kg in Pyongyang and Sinuiju and at 7,000 KPW per kg in Hyesan. Finally, 1
kg of diesel fuel was selling at 5,500 KPW in Pyongyang, 5,100 KPW in Sinuiju,
and 5,000 KPW in Hyesan. This has been a rundown on North Korea’s latest market
prices.
1. Up until now, we’ve heard the prices of
various goods throughout North Korea. Now, as we enter the beginning of fall,
we’re heard reports that cheong-su gugsu is getting a lot of attention in
Yanggang Province. For more detail, we turn to special reporter Kang Mi Jin.
Yes, I was also surprised to suddenly catch
wind of the spreading word of a certain kind of noodle soup in North Korea. But
the more I heard, the more it began to make sense. As Yanggang Province enters
the start of summer, potato harvest there is reaching its peak. As residents
get ready to pitch in extra hours for the Autumn Harvest Mobilization, they are
also frantically working on their own plots to ensure that they’ll have enough
food. But Yanggang Province gets chilly early. Residents in that region are
likely to see white egrets fly by and frost on the ground. But the residents
have found a way to endure the mobilizations and make the necessary
preparations during this difficult time.
Before they head out for the agricultural
mobilizations, they tend to their own plots, looking to extract an early
harvest. Families gather together and help each other by rotating from one plot
to the next until they have reaped everything they can. Of course, the houses receiving
the help make some delicious lunch, bread, and snacks for their volunteer
helpers. But when it comes time for dinner, most people go for noodles.
There’s a couple reasons for this. Firstly,
the noodles are a hearty and tasty meal. Second, they are on the cheaper side,
so it’s less of a burden on the household finances. Cold noodle soup is also a
great way to cool off in a heat wave. It’s also good and parties. It’s
considered a necessary stock for everyone’s kitchen. Plus, since it is so
affordable, it is also known as an affectionate gesture to share it with the
family.
1-1. Cheong-su gugsu is also available here in
South Korea. Does South Korean cheong-su gugsu ever make its way to the market
in the North?
There are standing restrictions on South
Korean products, so it is difficult to see that in the jangmadang (vendor
operated marketplace). Although there are some exceptions for food products,
the majority of sources indicate that South Korean cheong-su gugsu is hard to
find. The available varieties come from China and from a noodle factory in
Yanggang Province called DaeHong Dan. DaeHong Dan’s noodles are made from
potato starch. I think that there will be a time soon when North Koreans will
be able to try South Korea’s version of cheong-su gugsu. Sources indicate that
most of the cheong-su gugsu currently sold in Yanggang Province is manufactured
in China and includes noodles made from wheat and noodles made from corn. I’m
told the wheat variety is more popular.
2. Can you explain for us a little bit
about the pricing structure of the wheat vs. corn made noodles?
I’d be happy to. The wheat and corn
varieties go for the same price: KPW 6,000 (about USD 0.73). I’ve thought about
the reasons why the residents enjoy cheong-su gugsu so much and one of the
reasons I’ve come up with is that is is traditionally one of ethnic Koreans
favorite foods. But after thinking a bit more deeply, I came to a different
conclusion. The residents lead busy and difficult lives. Noodles offer them a
simple and convenient, yet nutrient loaded, food solution to their constant
time shortage problems.
When I was getting my house built in North
Korea in 2007, I rented out some laborers and decided that noodles were a great
way to keep them fed and energized. Making a traditional meal requires pricey
rice, boiling soup, and preparing various banchan side dishes. But with noodle
soup, all you need is one side dish or a bit of kimchi and you’re set. And it’s
a crowd pleaser as well. At the present, 1kg of rice goes for KPW 6,200 in
Hyesan Agricultural Market, which is approximately enough for four adults. But
1 kg of noodles can feed about 5~6 adults. It’s a more economical choice any
way you look at it.
3. We know that the soup sold well in the
summer and will continue this popularity throughout the fall. We also hear that
it isn’t just the residents scurrying to prepare for the autumn harvest who
have fallen head over toes for the noodles, other residents are also getting in
on the trend. What can you tell us about that?
Yes, this is another thing I was curious
about, so I inquired. Right now in Yanggang Province’s Hyesan city, residents
are being mobilized to construct statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il and
construction projects abutting the area around the statues. In order to
encourage the residents to work harder, organizations like companies and
inminban leaders are providing one bowl of cheong-su gugsu.
Noodles are a popular food for events that
gather large amounts of people. As you mentioned before, North Koreans really
enjoy noodles in the summer, but as soon as summer hits, there are a number of
occasions that traditionally call for the consumption of noodles. Weddings and
60th birthday parties are examples. And sometimes even when it’s not their
birthday, women will invite their friends over to enjoy a bowl of noodles. As I
say this, memories of my life in North Korea are flooding into my imagination.
4. Sounds like cheong-su gugsu is perfect
fuel for mobilized residents and farm workers alike. It’s easy to make and it
doesn’t require lots of banchan to accompany it, so it’s a natural selection
for the busy North Korean residents. Outside of the jangmadang, is there any
way for the residents to get their hands on cheong-su gugsu?
Yes. There are many different kinds of
noodles just like cheong-su gugsu, including corn noodles, wheat noodles, etc.
cheong-su gugsu noodles are smooth and pack a strong flavor. They’re a bit more
tasty than wheat or corn noodles. Right now wheat and corn noodles are selling
for about 5500 KPW per kg. This yields a slightly smaller amount of food than a
comparative amount of cheong-su gugsu. Cheong-su gugsu costs about 500 KPW more
than the other brands, but it actually produces more final product when it’s
cooked and it tastes great, so the residents prefer it.
You mentioned earlier that you perceived
that the residents are looking for simplicity. I think you hit the nail on the
head. During the course of the year, there is basically no time when the
residents get to put their feet up and relax. That’s doubly true for the fall
season when agricultural and civil mobilizations are compounded by the need to
work on one’s individual plot, and then there’s kimchi to make and vegetable
harvests to tend to all while getting ready for a grisly winter. For such busy
people, noodles almost become a part of the family. They help save time and
money and conserve precious resources. I think that’s why they have caught on
as the go to food.
5. After hearing that, how could they not
like cheong-su gugsu? Right now it is getting a bit chilly here in Seoul
during the morning and at night. I get the impression that it might be even
cooler in North Korea. With that in mind; how do they prefer to eat the
noodles, cold or hot?
As you just hinted at, North Korea has sort
of passed the point of chilly mornings and nights and moved into the crisp fall
weather period. When it gets a little chilly like this, I think the soup provider
and the soup eater both benefit when it gets served warm. In the fall, most
residents prefer warm soup. On North Korean menus, there’s even a dish called
‘September Noodles,’ which is of course served hot. Another delicious option is
to put the noodles in soy bean paste stew.
When unification happens, let’s go together
to my hometown in Yanggang Province and I’ll prepare for you ‘Farmer’s Delight
Noodles,’ one of the specialties there. These days, I hear there’s another
variety using potatoes as well. Today, on September 9th, North Korea celebrates
the founding of the country. Instead of eating gugsu to celebrate the meaning
of that holiday, many residents will be deliciously slurping down noodles like
they do on just about any other day.
5-1. Haeb Nong-ma Gugsu is a noodle soup
made with potatoes, no?
Absolutely correct. haeb nong-ma originally
means to use this year’s produce before it goes bad. A certain percentage of
residents like to use the potatoes from their own garden to make this kind of
noodle soup. I also hired some workers for the potato harvest every year in a
worker-exchange type situation. Nothing treats guests quite like noodles do.
6. If sales continue to do well like this,
the vendors are going to be quite happy about that. But if cheong-su gugsu
sells extra well, doesn’t that come as a detriment to the sales of wheat and
corn noodle vendors?
That’s a complicated matter to dissect.
We’ve heard from an inside source that while cheong-sy gugsu popularity is
climbing it hasn’t affected the sales of the competing varieties, which still
hold a spot in the marketplace. Some residents are so bent on saving every
penny possible that the 500 KPW difference actually adds up: it’s enough for
1kg of salt. So there are plenty of people who still go to corn and wheat
noodles. Plus, as soon as autumn strikes, there are lots of wholesale orders
for vendors in valley regions, so there’s enough demand to keep all the vendors
in the green.
7. Something I have been curious about that
I’d like to ask you. You mentioned that the mobilized workers are fed noodle
soup. But the mobilizations can sometimes be in remote areas. There likely
aren’t any restaurants nearby. I am curious how they transport and provide the
soup?
I think it’s important to examine
logistical issues like this, so thanks for bringing this up. They
generally eat it on site. A few of the mobilized workers will leave the site to
go prepare the food. They separate into little parties to collect the bowls, soup,
noodles, and banchan separately. The noodles get dried up and put in a
big circle. The banchan [side dishes] is placed in the middle. They say when it
is prepared this way it tastes even better than homemade.
For the agricultural mobilizations, they go
off to a nearby house to prepare it. We’ve gotten word that the noodles simply
taste better when consumed outside. I think some of our North Korean listeners
will know what I am talking about. I think we will also have some listeners in
North Korea who prepare to make and serve noodles tomorrow. Next time we meet,
I’ll talk about one of the market’s hot sellers: cigarettes. Be well everyone!
Until then.
