–It’s time for another episode of the weekly series Market Trends, where we look at the latest developments in North Korea’s economy. As the temperature plunges in Seoul, urbanites are scrambling to re-energize and heat up in the many saunas and bathhouses available here, which begs the question: Is there a sauna culture in North Korea?
There definitely is. The most prized of the sauna facilities available is the Ryugyong Health Complex, which was constructed in 2012 and boasts a wide variety of steam rooms and salt baths, etc. The opening of this establishment was widely trumpeted in the North Korean state media as “a product of the wise leadership and devoted efforts of leader Kim Jong Il and the dear respected Marshal Kim Jong Un – and that they were built by service personnel and people through their patriotic efforts to devotedly carry out the plans and intentions of the party and the leader.”
Korean Central News Agency (KCNA) also reported that the “modern facilities for bathing, hairdressing, beauty and massage treatment and fitness exercises” are available to serve “7,200 people each day.” However, in reality, the site is both physically and economically inaccessible for most ordinary North Koreans. So the average citizen needs to visit provincial sports clubs if they wish to use a sauna.
–Have you personally been to the Ryugyong Health Complex? Does it differ greatly from the bathhouses you’ve been to here in South Korea?
I’ve never been, because I’d already defected to South Korea before it’s construction was finished. According to information about the facilities across North Korean media platforms, the steam baths in Ryukyung were all constructed of pine and limestone. But those materials should have gone to help ordinary citizens who are already struggling due to deforestation and a lack of firewood. Likewise, sedimentary rocks like limestone are often sold in the markets as medicinal ingredients to improve blood circulation.
It is also used in a form of massage therapy that uses special stones called basalt stones. These stones are good at holding heat, which penetrates deep into the muscle tissue, relieving tension and supposedly releasing toxins. Hot stone massages are very relaxing and can be beneficial for health. My father had liver problems and so heating up a piece limestone and placing it on his abdomen was of great relief to him.
Fortunately, however, times are quickly changing. I spoke with a source recently who told me that more people are seeking out saunas for the health benefits. The increasing popularity is occurring through word of mouth and because more people are enjoying relative stability compared to the past.
–Could you describe what these regional facilities are like?
It varies by region of course, and also on the financial resources available to each facility. For example, the sauna within the sports club I frequented back in Ryanggang Province wasn’t as good as the salt-steam room at Ryukyung but was still very enjoyable. At that time there weren’t many in the area who were able to visit these amenities. Fortunately I had a friend who was a volleyball player with access to the Potong River Sports Club and she got me in and I loved it.
–I understand that privately-run bathhouses are proliferating across the country. Are these targeting a specific demographic or are they all-inclusive establishments?
Yes, there are an increasing number of entrepreneurs opening up saunas. In Hyesan alone there are independently-run saunas in Hyegangdong, Hyesindong, and Songhudong, just to name a few. Ordinary residents and cadres alike frequent these facilities.
Unfortunately, not all residents welcome these establishments, especially due to their association with extramarital affairs. There are often calls for stricter regulations and surveillance for that reason, but the owners are just trying to make a living, so we can’t really blame them for the choices of others.
–What are the entry fees like for saunas?
The price in Hyesan for private-run saunas is 6,000 KPW. For couples to get a private area, the rate is 60,000 KRW per hour. Needless to say, that is not chosen by most ordinary residents. For more rural areas outside of urban centers, the entrance price hovers around 3,000 KPW.
–We’ll close with the market prices.
The price of grains rose fractionally in most regions across North Korea since our last report.
One kilogram of rice costs 5,000 KPW in Pyongyang, 5,000 KPW in Sinuiju, and 5,500 KPW in Hyesan. One kilogram of corn kernels costs 1,080 KPW in Pyongyang, 1,110 KPW in Sinuiju, and 1,200 KPW in Hyesan.
One dollar was trading at 8,160 KPW in Pyongyang, 8,120 KPW in Sinuiju, and 8,170 KPW in Hyesan. One yuan was trading at 1,210 KPW in Pyongyang, 1,200 KPW in Sinuiju and Hyesan. One kilogram of pork sold at 13,000 KPW in Pyongyang, 13,500 KPW in Sinuiju, and 15,600 KPW in Hyesan. And finally, one kilogram of gasoline sold for 8,200 KPW in Pyongyang, 8,150 KPW in Sinuiju, and 8,400 KPW in Hyesan, while one kilogram of diesel sold for 5,800 KPW in Pyongyang, 6,000 KPW in Sinuiju, and 5,850 in Hyesan.
*Prices current as of November 17.
